Baptism by Fire - NO - Rain, Heavy Rain, Mud

BreakfastDay 1 of Walk.  13.10 miles, plus extra mile on River edge, plus extra mile to get out of Chepstow = 15 miles

7 hours walking

Chepstow to Redbrook.

Watch out for vicious deer with antlers!

The Weather Channel was absolutely Spot On with the forecast for this day, in this small country - Heavy Rain - 100% ALL day.

Last nights bathroom (note heavy beams in ceiling).  Also it was the most crooked building.  Uneven floors slipping in various directions.  Add in a bed with a sagging mattress that just happened to slope in same direction of floor.  Felt kind of crooked all the time. 

Nothing like a Major reintroduction to a typical British day.  Wetness!

Basically the Marmot waterproofs held up.  The Ahnu boots kept the feet dry.  The double SmartWool socks kept those toes warm.  The REI rain fly did not keep the pack dry - but - everything inside the pack was stored in zip lock plastic bags - so EVERYTHING was dry when unpacked in tonight's room at the Florence B&B in Redbrook.

Muddy path 

This morning the choice was to have the fried egg, toast, tomato (ta-maaa-toe), bacon (fried ham), fruit, and of course coffee.

More Muddy paths

After trouble sleeping and waking up at midnight - hungry - was sound asleep when the alarm went off.  Turned on TV and watched the news on a program called "Good Morning Wales".  A weather map was shown for all the UK, which includes Northern Ireland, with the RAIN forecast.  The map also showed Ireland and it was fun to think of Susan, Henry, Kim, and Claire, being over there in County Mayo, and me just across that sea called Irish.

Clouds and fog 

Last evening between attempts to try to have a FaceTime chat with Gary (it didn't work very well) I wandered outside the hotel, took a stroll up to the castle and after photographing that black cat outside the Chepstow Historical Museum realized there were voices coming out and the museum was open.  Wandered in.  They were having a "Gallery Opening".  Accepted a glass of wine.  Went up to listen to the lecture on the old prints and paintings of the Chepstow Castle and the history of the town.  Very interesting. 

Wild Garlic accompanied me all day

On Offa's Dyke Path today I encountered first a solo lady hiker who was completing the walk coming from north to south.  She was wearing a full Marmot rain set, just like mine, only her jacket was purple. Later met a solo man coming from north to south also.  He said there were two women about a mile ahead of me, and in front of them a solo woman.  Never caught up with any.

Carrot and coriander soup for lunch. 

By fireplace trying to dry out.  But didn't work :(

Spent the day in the rain, and mud, plodding along, but felt good.  Think tomorrow will put the knee braces on as there were some twinges, and no knee issues are needed.

The fingers and the Biofreeze had a nice session with the back/ribs.  Not too bad

Village in Appalachia or Wales? 

Baa baa 

Navigating today was not bad.  The worst part was getting out of Chepstow because the "old" bridge is closed for repairs it was necessary to make a wide loop using the new very busy bridge and trying to rejoin where the trail started off after the "old" bridge.  Pouring rain didn't help with trying to map read.  Asked a Lorry driver to look at my map, he couldn't figure it out.  Went into a butcher shop (doors open and flies flying in).  First  I asked a lady who looked just like Mrs Pritchard of the BBC series "The Amazing Mrs Pritchard", and she informed me she didn't understand maps.  Then a shop girl came out from the back and admitted she couldn't read maps.  The first butcher said he was no good with maps.  The second butcher had to put on his glasses, but was able to point me in the correct direction.  Basic lessons in navigation should be a part of everyone's education as it opens up the world.  Don't just see everything through a GPS (Olivia)

Horses with Blindfolds

Finally found Offa's Dyke Path.  Took the rubber tips off the trekking poles and set off.  After about 10 minutes realized the path was leading back to Chepstow.  Turn around, retrace steps, back on road until the northern path was found.  After that the trail is Extremely well marked.  Amazingly well marked.  Only a couple places was there some confusion, but after checking the maps, difficult in the rain (could have used windshield wipers for the glasses) used common sense and  chose the correct path. 

Had lunch in a tiny hamet Brickweir (too tiny to be called a village) that only had the one offering for food (the room only had three tables),

had the carrot and coriander soup with hot bread and tea while sitting by a fireplace trying to dry out.

Sailboat waiting on River Wye

Descended finally into Redbrook down a steep, very steep path (had to go down sideways because of the steepness and mud, and then down 67 steps to reach the village where it was necessary to phone for a ride to tonight's B&B 

View out my window to the main house (1500's structure)

Dinner tonight (salad) smoked salmon platter. 

Entree:  mushroom, cranberry, brie and veggies. Far too much food.  The "salad" would have been enough.

View out the bathroom window - stone wall holding up the hillside which rose straight up beyond the cottage

Breakfast - toast yogurt fruit beans tomatoes mushroom juice coffee = stuffed Lois

A brief doze while crossing a large pond

The

Saint Mary's Priory, Chepstow

Considering how fast the many miles between where this began yesterday in central Wisconsin, arriving in Manchester, and finally Chepstow, it is amazing to remember not that many centuries ago humans on each side of that large pond didn't know there were others beyond their limited sphere of life. 

 Now while trying to take a bit of a doze, eat a couple meals, watch a couple movies (Into The Woods), a person, or couple, or family, can land and be surrounded by a new culture.

The flight was supposed to take 7 hours, but because there was a good tailwind, it only took 6.  Great, an extra hour to wander in a jet lagged stupor around an airport with few places to sit while waiting 4 hours to catch the first train.  

The first train for some reason stopped dead still on the tracks.  Stopped so long the connecting train connection was missed. First opportunity to breathe deep and say that old phrase "be flexible and have a sense of humor".  Sure enough with some patience, and a few smiles, I was able to be re-routed on different lines.  So instead of three trains there were four today, and was only an hour behind the scheduled arrival time.  

The Castle View hotel was a 10 minute walk from the train station and my room has a view of the castle.  But because the castle is between myself and the sun no photo yet as it would only be a silhouette. 

Left backpack on hotel floor unpacked and immediately went out to walk to the official start of the Offa Dyke Path.  45 minutes later arrived at the swampy edge of the Severn Estuary.  

Couldn't even get down to the water to do the traditional dipping of the boots as the tide was out and mud everywhere.  Settled on holding up those black beauties, with the water and bridge behind.

Rather tired and expect once the head is placed on the pillow it will not move till morning.  I hope. 

Between the seats ahead of me on one of those trains this Taco Bell bag was spotted.  Over heard the man munching from the bag telling the Indian man across the aisle from him what it was when he expressed curiosity.  Not Spanish, but American.  There are two Taco Bells in London now, and this is the first up north.

Dinner - chicken tandoori on baguette 

Found the same sign as before.  Sure felt like this recently myself

Chepstow Castle

All the bags are packed

All my bags are packed, I'm ready to go...leaving on a jet plane.

Next posting will be from the United Kingdom - Wales.

Stuff is Stuffed

All the Stuff is now Stuffed into labeled zip lock bags.  All the zip lock bags are stuffed into the backpack, or carry on bag.  The backpack is stuffed into the flight travel bag.

Osprey flight bag.  Chorus Line carry-on bag.  Purse with the main essentials - FUNDS.

Last Physical Therapy session this morning where I received my "graduation t-shirt".

One day until departure.  Looks like this trekker is ready to go.

What To Take For 39 Days

To start the process of planning - What To Take For 39 Days in Wales - I just pulled out the photo book I had made and printed of all my blog entries and pictures from the C2C in 2013.  
After looking at the images of clothing and all the other necessary things, it was easy to set out what to take this time.  Basically the same items will be going. 

So if it looks like I am wearing the same clothes as 2 years ago, you are correct - I am.  

And if it looks like I am wearing the same clothes day after day, for 39 days, you are correct - I am.

Here is what will be carried on my back.  Should have Stock in Columbia Sportswear.  

There might be a few more minor items, and, I didn't share views of my undies.

Outerwear

Gaiters, thin Columbia zip jacket, Marmot waterproof pants, Marmot waterproof jacket

Lower wear

Shorts, capri length leggings, long leggings, 2 long pants (evening attire)

2 Columbia dresses, 1 skort

Top Wear

2 sleeveless shirts, 1 Columbia thin short sleeve, 1 Columbia thin long sleeve, 1 Columbia 3/4 sleeve with buttons, 1 Columbia long sleeve with buttons

Socks

2 pair SmartWool mid-weight hiking socks, 2 pair SmartWool liners, 1 pair normal socks 

1 pair knee braces, 1 ankle brace, 1 sun hat, 1 pair finger-less gloves, 1 pair waterproof gloves, 1 Buff (can be worn for warmth on neck, or over head as a cold weather hat), 2 headbands (ears are bothered by cold wind), 1 bunion guard, 1 scarf for decorative purposes 

Froggie (waterproof map carrier, also good for glasses, bananas, and candy bars), over-the-shoulder purse, tiny coin purse, GBP (British pounds to buy things with), passport, compass, iPhone (MOST IMPORTANT ITEM!!!), magnifying strip (bad eyes), Camelbak water bladder, thin bag - A Chorus Line - to be carry-on bag for plane or other uses

Medical emergency supplies

Personal "emergency" supplies

Harvey Strip Maps, Guide books for both routes

As the Map says "A good week's walking on one map" I have 3 maps, and 2 will be used twice

Example of "a day's walk" on one section of a strip map, the trail is highlighted with red lines, the pink highlighted area is my destination for this particular day.

  

Another day's walking route.  See why a magnifying glass is needed, especially if it is windy and pouring rain.

The actual guide books will not be carried on my back. Gary can follow along at home with them.   I have photocopied all the relevant pages of maps and walking directions so they can be discarded after their use has ended.  Felt it was unnecessary to carry the additional weight of images of birds, flora and fauna, and where is the best place to eat each evening (often there are no choices).  

The set of papers in the lower area is the Day to Day directions I have been sent to reach each destination for the evenings accommodations.  How to find them.  When it is necessary to phone at some point in the mid-afternoon (from a specific high hill with cell phone reception), and whether it is necessary to per-order an evening meal at each establishment (no place else to go), and when that night's host needs to pack a lunch for the next day because there is nothing to be purchased because there will be nothing the next day other than sheep.  Yes, sheep again.  Baa, Baa, Baa!!

Trekking poles, BLACK Ahnu hiking boots (Susan and Kim have the same set) and they are Absolutely the Most Wonderful boots made!!!  Sandals (evening attire, and can be worn with socks and discarded in the end), light gray REI waterproof cover for backpack, dark gray Osprey cover for backpack for plane ride, green Osprey backpack that will hold all of the above, and become a permanent attachment to my back.  Hope the back and ribs hold out.

Training to walk across another country

The actual act of training to walk across another country came to an abrupt halt with that midnight crash landing over the stair railing, and the act of rebuilding strength was a slow process.  

First put one foot in front of the other, bring second foot up next to first foot.  Push walker with wheels and brakes forward a little bit.  Move first foot forward, bring second foot up, push walker forward.  Repeat, and repeat.  Remember to breathe.  Progress to walking freely without use of walker.  Once released from re-hab begin taking daily walks in large box stores (Walmart, Lowes, Target, grocery, etc) and slowly study products on shelves. 

Next walk one block outside on snow covered sidewalks hanging on to Gary's arm.  Next day walk two blocks still holding.  Next day walk 3 blocks by myself.  Daily adding a few more blocks distance.  After building up to walking 2 miles over a number of weeks added a small book bag with one art book inside for weight.  After doing that for a few days add another art book.  After a few days add a few more blocks.  Gradually adding distance and weight.  

After the books came to 6 pounds they were transferred to the large "real" backpack that will be used for the hike that has a hip-belt to distribute weight from the back and those hurting ribs.   Add the mustache blanket Miss Rosie made me while I was in re-hab to cushion the sharp edges of the books.  Keep adding a book each week.  Keep adding mileage.  Add on a couple longer walks on the Green Circle behind the airport which involved about 4 hours hiking time, and a sandwich eaten mid-hike.  Hike for 4 hours on Rib Mountain a few times with the weighted pack.  

The final weight of the backpack filled with Art History came to 27 pounds.

The History that traveled on the back during the training prep.

This training was way behind where it had been 2 years ago in preparation for the C2C.  There were less hikes on Rib Mountain - but this round the hikes could actually be on the uneven trails rather than just up and down the sidewalk next to the roadway because the trails before had been covered with snow.  

Two weeks before the actual departure date (May 12) I decided to stop carrying the heavy weight and just focus on keeping up a steady daily walking routine alternating distance between the typical 5 mile route which takes an hour and 15 minutes and the longer 4 hour hikes on the Green Circle or Rib Mountain.