Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Horrendous Gale winds, and Friendly Cows

Day 20 Walking
Castell Dinas Bran to Clwyd Gate
14.50 EXTREMELY GUSTY miles
7.5 hours, but good hours


Fresh flowers on my breakfast table





 


Keep learning about the Welsh who immigrated to America (Ohio) or Canada, but even more went as colonists to South America (Argentina and Patagonia) in 1865. On BBC 2 tonight (last night) there was a program about the Welsh and the settlement in those countries where today there are large areas where the Welsh have retained their cultural identity. They have become gauchos. In Argentina they speak a mixture of Welsh and Spanish. 



Learned about a world famous choir contest that is held in July in this town of Llangollen.  Choirs come from all over the world to sing and compete. Last nights the host Riv told about having Croatians, Costa Ricans, Germans, Russians, etc, sitting around his table eating breakfast in their full native costumes before being collected from all the small B&B's in the area to be taken to the competition. 






Croissant for breakfast today, a highlight, along with muesli with tons of fresh fruits and nuts added. 



Bookshelf in last night's room had a copy of White Teeth, and John Le Carre's The Spy Who Came In From The Cold. Bookshelves tell a lot about a person.  



Had to walk across the stream which was flowing over the road. 


After being driven the 1.5 miles up to the top of the mountain and started walking three steps realized the trekking poles were still back at the B&B.  Flagged down Heather who had dropped me off on her way to work. Felt very bad as she had to drive me back down to the village. 


Malcom and Poppy ahead of me being blown Up Hill to the wonderful land of Tundra landscape (I loved it!). 



People have trouble driving in reverse here.  Mostly women have talked about it, but the men too have said numerous things about difficult issues when having to back-up. I find that strange.  No problem for me normally to backup, only with the little camper attached does it get confusing. 




Moor land 


Fortunately there were these planks to help get humans across the boggy moors



High stile to escape the moors


Replanting the dark forest. 



Walked briefly with two women who were doing the last third of the walk.  They had started in Welshpool and stayed at the same Farm I did, with the king size rooms. 





Today felt like I was truly back on Baffin Island with gale force winds to match. Was actually blown up hill during one stretch. Other places the trekking poles had to be pierced into the ground to be used as brakes. What a day to be following a path, a narrow path, along a narrow trail, on the edge of an extremely steep mountain side, with rocks that had fallen, making it look like a potential avalanche area. 


Wearing same clothes day after day is not just something this walker does. Many of the English/Welsh wear the same one basic outfit day after day.  Last nights host John (pink jeans and green sweater) and his wife Heather had the same outfits on today as yesterday.  I remember learning something like that years ago in my Women's Study class as a student in London.  A local woman came and talked to our class about the London culture and the role of women in it.  One thing that she mentioned was that we might look around and see all the masses of people on the streets wearing very trendy clothes.  It was explained that unlike Americans who have lots of "outfits" the people in London tend to buy one new, very trendy, outfit each year, and will wear that same set of clothes everyday.  That set of "trendy" clothes will be replaced when new styles come out.  But they don't have closets and drawers overflowing with items.  Especially items way out dated. 




One of the places I stayed at the woman mentioned that often Americans come with Large luggages and they leave behind all sorts of things like sweaters, jeans, jackets. I felt a bit guilty as I too have abandoned things along my way. That shirt that caught up with me I have decided to keep as long as it made such an effort to find me. 




The view "Robin" liked looking towards Ireland, but still in Wales. 


Met a hiker coming towards me and as I was about to speak to him, I heard voices. He had some sort of radio or something on his back and a lady was speaking. He barely looked at me. So much for a conversation.  Really weird up in the forest. 


In the dark dark woods there were no animals and certainly no bears. No bears in Britain.  The darkness of the deep woods doesn't show up in the photos unfortunately. Very strange forest.  






Nothing open in the town of Llandegla to get lunch other than the post office.  Realized another meal of those bad sandwiches they sell was not appealing, and the cookie canister still had a good supply of provisions.  




Saint Tecla's Church front window. 


Was told that the church at the bottom of the hill was Open for Refreshments so aimed the feet in that direction.  That information was correct.  Saint Tecla's was open. Nice supply of water to make a hot beverage, and their own tin of cookies.  And, the cookies were SHORTBREAD.  Happy Lois! 

Saint Tecla's Church has been in the same site since 1273. The original medieval was slightly smaller than the current church which was rebuilt in 1866.  Learned the church in Llandegla "is dedicated to Saint Tecla of Iconium.  Iconium is the modern Konya in Turkey. Tecla was converted to Christianity by St Paul".
 Added bonus a chance to sit indoors (still a chilly damp place) out of the winds.  It was appreciated greatly. 


Bedroom at Hafan Deg. 


Breakfast room


Hafan Deg


Spicy sauce Welsh version


Open Faced cauliflower, spinach, and pine nut lasagna. Strange, but sort of tasty. 


The couple who stayed with me last night, and two nights before, (very quiet small couple who look just like each other - a real couple) played leap frog with me all day. They had arrived in the church and were surprised to find me sitting there with a cup of tea.  Malcolm and Poppy I learned were their names. 

There were birds up in the ceiling of the church and they kept chirping. 

Gale force winds liked this trekker has never walked in before.  Poles constantly used as brakes. What a place to have to deal with heavy winds. A few days back along the flat of the canals it wouldn't have mattered at all. Felt like a combination of Winter Blizzard winds, or what Dorethy looked like in The Wizard of Oz as the tornado bore down on her and Toto. 

Always a good feeling of relief to find the acorn symbol on a fence post after a block of time of doubt. Very reassuring. 

Feet are feeling good.  

Long hot soak in tub was much appreciated. 

Couple at next table sat and CHEWED for over a half hour staring at their platters of food, and did not say a word to each other.  Eating must be serious business for them!


Ate dinner at the local place (only place!) The Miners Arms (open from 6-8 only) and my host Cat (short for Catronia) Smith co-owns the place. 

When leaving I found myself scanning the other 15 or so patrons to see if Anyone was recognizable.  None. 

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